The Rakaia River is calling my name: it's hot inside the car. From my window, I see a line of jet boats skimming across the river's metallic-green surface. A family have gathered at the river's edge for a picnic. I want to do that, too. But we must press on. Our goal is to drive to the Waipara Valley, taking in a chunk of the Alpine Pacific Touring Route, one of the country's newest touring routes. We'll...